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| Monogram 1:48 Hawker Typhoon | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Oct 22 2013, 05:18 PM (1,115 Views) | |
| Brews | Oct 22 2013, 05:18 PM Post #1 |
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I think that this has been on the back-burner for about 6 years, if not longer. It's a kit that could be assembled in half a day if you weren't fussy about details. I'd lost the tailwheel, but found it recently, so I can forget about that one that I was scratch-building, even though it would be, perhaps, more accurate. The kit item will be sturdier, if nothing else! There are some annoying errors - perhaps unnecessary, too. The heel boards are parallel, and clunky to the point of being clumsy. They don't really look anything like they should, but they're there. One of the annoying things about it is that the part holds up the control column, so mucking about with it to any great extent may compromise that rather noticeable piece of cockpit equipment. I decided to just give them a wash of Burnt Sienna and give it the Nelson treatment. Apt for this time of year, anyway. I couldn't leave the seat alone. OOB, it's almost as bad as Trumpeter's idea of a Spitfire seat. Granted, it's better than nothing, but I added a layer of Milliput and cross-hatched it with the back of a scalpel, and applied some 0.010" strips for belts. A bit of a PITA, but the worst thing was that my research was based on the Millicast seat, which was praised in IPMS-USA. It is a nice piece of work, but it's incorrect in that the belts don't roll over the top of the seat, but over a horizontal bar above the seat. Noone will notice. I am currently tossing up whether or not to blank off the area above the radiator. There is a bit of "see through" from the radiator front and rear. Detailing the underside of a Sabre isn't what I had in mind for this particular build, which I'm more-or-less treating as a "get it done and out of the way" build. I think I'll leave it alone. Or maybe a piece of card. I've not decided yet. Rocket-firing Typhoons had their wing-leading-edge-landing-lights faired over. Just as well, since I'm missing one of them. Milliput for both, I think, and I'll save the spare in case I lose one of my others (I think I have at least two more Monogram Tiffies ... no, 3 - I bought one for $2 at the Vancouver Fall Show). The wheels are a bit suspect. Probably the right size tyre, but the hub looks relatively tiny. Not going to check at this time. Anyway, here's the seat. It did have a height adjustment lever at one point, but it fell off and I'm not replacing it! Don't be too alarmed at the blocky nature of the bottom of it. You just can't see it when the fuselage sides are together. ![]() |
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| Brews | Oct 22 2013, 10:11 PM Post #2 |
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I blanked off the rear of the radiator with brass mesh (cut into an oval shape) and blanked off above the radiator with 0.010" plastic card. In faffing around this morning, the IP fell off, but on the plus side, I found some Mike Grant Instrument decals, so I might tart it up a little bit. When that's done, I can close it up and fill/sand the seams. TBH, the seams look like they'll be mostly pretty good. The rear of the underside of the wing/fuselage joint will need a strip of 0.010" card and superglue but that's about it, I think.![]()
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| Brews | Oct 22 2013, 10:15 PM Post #3 |
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This kit dates from 1968. It is one of only two available in injected styrene AFAIK in 1:48 scale. I haven't really looked at my Hasegawa Typhoon, but it's streets ahead of this from the few glances I've afforded it.
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| MikeC | Oct 23 2013, 04:48 AM Post #4 |
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Too many SIGs for my own good
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^^^ The Hasegawa one is undoubtedly street ahead, but the Monogram one does scrub up nicely. For a bit of inspiration here's one I did a while back, pretty much from the box with some ADS decals.![]() ![]() ![]() Have fun - I enjoyed doing mine. |
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| Brews | Oct 23 2013, 05:40 AM Post #5 |
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Very nice, Mike. I got mine buttoned up tonight (except for the canopy). Just need to sand the seams, now. I used some 0.010" card in the gappage at the rear of the underside of the wing. Everything else was snug, but I might smear some putty over the tailplane roots. |
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| Brews | Oct 23 2013, 05:22 PM Post #6 |
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I thought I could probably fair in the radiator front, rather than just have the engine bay blanked-off. I got some 0.005" card and cut a rectangle with a notch for the oil cooler pipe fairing, and superglued it in like this:![]() I also cut a slot for the rear canopy centre track: ![]() The rear wing joint was something I'd been concerned about prior to attaching the wing. I had toyed with the idea of backing the joint with some plastic card attached underneath, to provide something for filler to sit against, before realising that a strip of plastic card would really be the way to go, as the alignment seemed to be ok. So, 0.010" card it was, and it worked out really well.
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| peebeep | Oct 23 2013, 08:49 PM Post #7 |
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Lots Of Trouble Usually Serious
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My reference says that the ID lamp behind the seat armour was not fitted to production aircraft, although you can see a bump in photos that would suggest the lamp holder was still fitted, if not the bulb. peebeep |
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| Brews | Oct 23 2013, 08:52 PM Post #8 |
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Thanks for that. I should cut it off and drill a hole, then? I thought it was an aerial
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| peebeep | Oct 23 2013, 09:12 PM Post #9 |
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Lots Of Trouble Usually Serious
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I don't have a really good photos to go on. The lamp holder seems to have had some sort of capping, understandable as loose objects might drop down an aperture then reappear if the aircraft becomes inverted. peebeep |
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| Brews | Oct 23 2013, 09:49 PM Post #10 |
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You think of everything. |
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| peebeep | Oct 23 2013, 09:58 PM Post #11 |
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Lots Of Trouble Usually Serious
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Part of our pre-flight drill at cadet AEF is to check clothing for loose articles that might go adrift during aerobatics or other manouvres. I've never done aeros as a civvie, but I'd guess you'd do the same pre-flight. Never bothered with it for straight and level flying, although instructors always used to drop hints about making sure pens and stuff are secured. Anything like that has potential to gum up the works if it disappears out of sight. peebeep |
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| Walrus | Oct 23 2013, 10:43 PM Post #12 |
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A bristle short of a full brush
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Had a quick look on Google images and not seen a good photo that shows the bulb. The holder does seem to be there ![]() ![]() ![]() Interesting to see mixed stores of RPG and 44 gal fuel tank on the third image |
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| Brews | Oct 24 2013, 02:42 AM Post #13 |
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Interesting, but not unusual for a British fighter to lack range. You'd never see a mx of bombs and rockets, though. |
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| Brews | Oct 24 2013, 03:43 PM Post #14 |
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I finished filling over the landing lights, and sprayed Tamiya Ocean Grey (XF-83?) over the upper surface last night. The canopy is blu-tacked on for convenience. I'll brush-paint the frames since there are only about 4 to do. I masked the lower frame. I'll position the canopy open ... maybe. I'm unhappy with the tone in this photograph, but I tried editing it in iPhoto without success. It's bluer than it looks, but not as blue as the Tamiya paint is originally (I suspect that I've thinned this down, and it's lost some blueness). It's adequate, though. ![]() I just took this one on a white background. It's closer to what it should be. Both photos in natural light - the first one outdoors, even.
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| Brews | Oct 24 2013, 03:50 PM Post #15 |
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It's odd that lots of drawings from otherwise-reliable sources show the ID lamp in place. I guess that's because the holder was still there on the few machines that were left post-1945, and the presumption must have been made that the bulb was simply missing, not that it was never used. That suggests to me that the fitting might not have been capped, as a bayonet or screw bulb fitting wouldn't be a bottomless pit for things to get lost in. It certainly doesn't seem likely to me that the ID bulb would have been used on the prototypes, as these had an opaque fairing behind the car doors. Maybe they were on some of the pre-production bubbletops? |
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| peebeep | Oct 24 2013, 04:34 PM Post #16 |
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Lots Of Trouble Usually Serious
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The lamp is visible on photos of car door Typhoons with the all round clear hood. If you check out any photo pf a car door Tiffie, if the image is of sufficient quality you will see the lamp located behind the aerial mast. This is the trial installation of the bubble hood:![]() Here is a reasonable image where the lamp fitting is visible on a later production aircraft: ![]() It's in a different location, but I would guess it slides with the hood. With regard to loose object checks we are required to remove any loose articles from clothing even the smallest coin. That's why I would conclude that if there is any sort of indent to the fitting where a loose object might become lodged, then it would be capped to prevent such a thing. peebeep |
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| foxy | Oct 24 2013, 04:46 PM Post #17 |
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Happy modeler
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Very Interesting subject matter, not to much modeling in the flying department, but like the history into this aircraft. I beleave it did not last to long in service .Nice going Brews mate Cheers foxy |
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| Brews | Oct 24 2013, 06:33 PM Post #18 |
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PB: The lamp in the 2nd photo might have slid with the hood, but not the first one. I suspect you're right about the cap. If it weren't capped, but the wires were "live" then there would be an open 24V circuit ready to get shorted. Not a good idea. Foxy: I thought that all but about 3 Typhoons were scrapped ASAP after end of hostilities, but I've seen a drawing of one used as a Target Tug in late 1945. I'm going to give my flexible frisket film a go this evening. As I have a few Typhoons to do, some semi-permanent masks might come in handy. |
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| DH764 | Nov 3 2013, 07:27 PM Post #19 |
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Its Tonka Time !!
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Ill watch this for inspiration as I managed to bag this kit at the Southwell show.....one of those jaw drop moments as I opened the box and found the KMC Resin set inside it !! Not bad for £8 Shes looking good with primer on and thanks for the refrences Andy |
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| Brews | Nov 4 2013, 09:46 PM Post #20 |
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Good score. The resin is worth GBP 8 alone. |
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