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Super Glue and Talc Filling; How To
Topic Started: Mar 4 2010, 02:29 PM (4,610 Views)
desmojen
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Iwata Goddess
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Having seen all the questions in Drewe's Phantom build about the CA + Talc method, I decided to put this little picture sequence up to show you. It seems to be an ever popular question, so I've made it sticky (see what I did there? :lol:)

You might wonder why anyone would bother putting talc into CA, it can be used as a filler by itself can't it?
Well yes it can, but if you've ever tried it, you will know how hard CA gets, and if you don't sand it straight away you are in trouble! It is also very hard to scribe, and can be stinky when used in large quantities.
Adding talc changes the qualities of the glue immensely. It becomes easier to apply as it is unlikely to run. It is massively easier to sand, and it stays that way regardless of how long you leave it. It will go off by itself quite happily, or you can use accelerator, you can drill it, carve it, file it, feather it and scribe it. It basically behaves like instant Milliput :)

Here is how I do it.
Firstly, you will need a gap. Here's one I made earlier in a popular large scale Spitfire kit.

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I always like to suggest that the best way of filling things is to avoid it altogether, but sometimes it is not possible, and this was one of those times.

So, what do you need?

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Answer, some CA glue, some talc, something to mix it on, and something to mix it with. Almost any CA will do this, but I would stay away from the super thin types, or the gel types.
The talc came from a one quid shop and is ordinary bathroom stuff. I use old bits of plastic to mix it on (currently the lid from a box of cotton buds) and I use cocktail sticks to mix it up.

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There is no set ratio of talc to glue. You can vary it according to what you are trying to achieve. For instance, less talc and a runnier mix is usually better for fine gaps, whereas a thick mix is good for bridging larger gaps. If you play around with it a bit you will soon find a consistency you like.

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When mixed, you will have a sweet smelling gloop which looks something like this. It is now ready to use.

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Putting it on with the stick is pretty self explanatory, but it's worth pointing out that this filler will also stick your bits together. For this reason I am working the gloop right into that big gap, rather than trying to bridge across the top.

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Once applied it will look something like this.

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Using accelerator is a matter of choice. With neat CA you pretty much have to if you want half a chance at sanding it. With the talc you can leave it to cure by itself if you prefer.
On the subject of accelerator, I recommend the Roket stuff by Deluxe Materials. It is the only one I have ever used which does not melt your plastic, or remove paint.

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I always use sanding boards. Sponges will not work on this occasion, take my word for it. 240 grit wet'n'dry will work too if you can't get a sanding board into a corner or something. The gloop sands as easily as normal filler.

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And here is the finished job. Because sanding boards or coarse paper need to be used, I use sponges afterwards to get the scratches out. It is well worth popping a coat of Mr Surfacer or Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer over the seams just to fill in any remaining scratches or small pinholes.
These photos were taken over a year ago, and I do have a slight twist on the method now. Prompted by watching some guy on youtube, I now add a small amount of MIG pigment to my talc before mixing with CA. This colours the mixture and helps make things a bit easier to see, but is entirely optional.

So there you go. Give it a try, you may be pleasantly surprised! I never fill with anything else now, and also build with CA in the first place, so ghost seams are a thing of the past. And it's fast too, it has taken way longer to write this post than that filler job would have taken me :)

Jen.
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phantomdriver
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Fox Mulder's soul brother.....
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always wondered why it wouldn't work for me........

:slaphead: :bow:
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MemberOne
Newbie
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Great tip Jen I'll give this one a try
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Mike W
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Hook down, wheels down... call the ball
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Tried and tested.
I thoroughly endorse this method :thumbsup:
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les
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Advanced Member
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go for the perfume smelling talk and it smells nice ;) agree never used filler for years.
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Phreak
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Advanced Member
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Thanks very much Jen, a very informative mini article on a suject dear to most people's hearts.
I'm going to have a go with this and see how I get on.
One quick dumbish question if I may. Do have any preference on which sanding boards you use?
Cheers
Rich
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les
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Advanced Member
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Rich,

Iuse a file or needle files and any grade of sander, it can be polished so anything will do. the more talk you use the quicker it goes off.
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peebeep
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Lots Of Trouble Usually Serious
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les
Mar 4 2010, 09:56 PM
the more talk you use the quicker it goes off.

Is this a modelling or chat up tutorial?!

:rofl:

peebeep
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les
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Advanced Member
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typo :slaphead:
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DH764
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Its Tonka Time !!
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You learn something new everyday !!
Ill be using this on my next Airfix Tornado ...plenty of gaps to fill :D
Now just need a tip to explain to SWMBO why Im buying Talc all the sudden :P

Andy
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RayS
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Advanced Member
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Thanks Jen, had heard of it but never seen it in practice. Looks like another method for the filling arsenal ( of which I manage to lots of).
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Floyd
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I like to mottle things.
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I've yet to use this method, still have a stockpile of milliput. what's the talk/glue like to rescribe? any pitfalls to be aware off.
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desmojen
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Iwata Goddess
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None at all really, it is honestly as easy as I make it sound :)

It scribes like hard plastic, better than Milliput in my opinion as I've always found Milliput to be a little prone to flaking and chipping as I try to scribe it. The only real gotcha is the possibility for fumes, as some people are sensitive to the fumes from super glue. If I'm doing a big load I do sometimes use my spray booth to avoid breathing too much of it in.

Another way of using gloop is actually as glue. I sometimes mix up a batch and glue my parts together with it. The stuff that squeezes out of the joint can be wiped smoothish, or just left to dry as it is. Once it is dry, sand it away and you're done! Glued and filled in one easy step :)

Jen.
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MikeC
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Too many SIGs for my own good
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I've just tried this: thanks very much, Jen, it worked a treat, it's the easiest quickest filler I've ever used. :thumbsup:

One downside - I've not long ago bought a new pack of Milliput! :boohoo: :crying:
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The Hooded Claw
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Advanced Member
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MikeC
Oct 5 2012, 04:12 PM
I've just tried this: thanks very much, Jen, it worked a treat, it's the easiest quickest filler I've ever used. :thumbsup:

One downside - I've not long ago bought a new pack of Milliput! :boohoo: :crying:
That's perfect as if you didn't buy it within the last 24 hours it will be buggered anyway!

THC (as firm an advocate of the superglue & talc method as any)
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Kpnuts
Advanced Member
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Something else I've learned, thanks very much.
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