| Welcome to Locate and Cement - Plastic Model Kit Review, Advice and Exchange of ideas.. We hope you enjoy your visit. You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are some features you can't use. If you join our community, you'll be able to access member-only sections, and use many member-only features such as customizing your profile, sending personal messages, and voting in polls. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free. Join our community! If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features: |
- Pages:
- 1
- 2
| Mind the gap; What's your preferred filler? | |
|---|---|
| Tweet Topic Started: Sep 17 2009, 08:25 PM (1,472 Views) | |
| Phreak | Sep 17 2009, 08:25 PM Post #1 |
|
Advanced Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
I've been used to Stucco as filler for a while now but I'm beginning to wonder if there's a better alternative. What's your filler of choice and why? Input much appreciated. |
![]() |
|
| peebeep | Sep 17 2009, 09:30 PM Post #2 |
|
Lots Of Trouble Usually Serious
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
That's interesting, stucco is something I normally specify for sticking on walls, not models! Small gaps, pin holes, small shrinkage - correction fluid. Big gaps, divots etc - either cyano gel + kicker, or Milliput. Monster gaps - Milliput. I've always had the belief that cellulose based tube filler comes out of the arse of Beelzebub, although it's been so long since I bought any things may have changed. peebeep |
![]() |
|
| Phreak | Sep 17 2009, 09:45 PM Post #3 |
|
Advanced Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Hi Paul What colour Milliput would you recommend as there seem to be a few variants? Ta RR |
![]() |
|
| desmojen | Sep 17 2009, 10:18 PM Post #4 |
|
Iwata Goddess
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
I use superglue with or without talc for almost everything. For really small stuff and finishing Mr Surfacr 500 or Tamiya Liquid Surface primer is the bees, and if you insist on using Milliput, I think white is about the friendliest for most things. Jen. |
![]() |
|
| peebeep | Sep 17 2009, 11:09 PM Post #5 |
|
Lots Of Trouble Usually Serious
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Milliput White (super fine) definitely. A while back I bought a small bottle full of 'Micro Balls' (stop sniggering at the back!). I think these are an expensive and profitable way of selling talcum powder...although they are effective at bulking up a surface and a drop of thin cyano will flash set. peebeep |
![]() |
|
| feanor | Sep 18 2009, 07:49 AM Post #6 |
|
Advanced Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Ayup All... Big stuff... Humbrol Filler. or more often, Plasticard slivers and Contacta / EMA Plastic weld. Mr Surfacer 500 for moderate stuff, 1000 for small sinkmarks, in layers, and 1200 for scratches... |
![]() |
|
| Phreak | Sep 18 2009, 04:24 PM Post #7 |
|
Advanced Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Thanks for the tips Pablo Right then, I'm off to liberate some talc from the bathroom and have a bash at this. It looks like some white Milliput is in order too. am I right in saying that you can quickly smooth Milliput with a damp finger when applied? TIA Rich |
![]() |
|
| peebeep | Sep 18 2009, 05:20 PM Post #8 |
|
Lots Of Trouble Usually Serious
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
You certainly can, can't beat a wet tool for working Milliput (ooh er, missus!). Provided it's mixed up correctly Milliput is a perfect lazy boy way of filling with minimal or no sanding. Use small quantities when mixing (pea sized or smaller as required) and roll each component into a thin string. Blend the two together, separate into half and keep repeating this until the Milliput is perfectly uniform and nicely warmed up. Work it into the gap to be filled and smooth off with a wet finger/implement or moist swab. At normal room temperature you will have about 20-30 minutes before it noticeably starts to firm up, although even when partially cured it can still be worked. Excess can be trimmed off with a sharp blade before it sets really hard. Sanding is best done no longer than a few hours after it has set, which is usually about 2 hours - depends on temperature. After a couple of days it will be rock hard and difficult to work, much harder than plastic, although at this stage it is possible to polish it up to a gloss surface if you're so inclined. Problems with Milliput (won't set properly, surface friable) are usually down to insufficient mixing, although if you don't trim off any crusty bits prior to mixing that will also lead to hassle. peebeep |
![]() |
|
| les | Sep 18 2009, 09:57 PM Post #9 |
|
Advanced Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Totally agree jen my choice to
|
![]() |
|
| Phreak | Sep 18 2009, 10:12 PM Post #10 |
|
Advanced Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Thanks y'all Gonna do some sperimenting on all these techniques. I did like the use of the word lazy, that's my first port of call! |
![]() |
|
| Beer Monster | Feb 28 2010, 12:30 PM Post #11 |
|
Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
A little late into the thread but I use Milliput standard and white. Occasionally Humbrol filler and at the moment I have some Revell Plasto to try. Yours Aye Andy |
![]() |
|
| The Hooded Claw | Feb 28 2010, 04:37 PM Post #12 |
|
Advanced Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
I've recenly binned Milliput and switched to the slightly more expensive but a damn sight more usable Gunze two part sold by MDC. This stuff is simply superb, easy to mix, very pliable and sets quickly with monimum wastage due to the format. Try some you may be pleasantly surprised. THC |
![]() |
|
| Karl Robinson | Feb 28 2010, 05:24 PM Post #13 |
|
Used to be a Woofie Man
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Yup, same here... can't beat CA/talc filling for speed and efficiency ![]() Only time I ever use Milliput is somewhere where there's no chance of getting in to sand anything. Then I'll use it and smooth down while wet, as previously suggested. Karl. |
![]() |
|
| Bazza | Mar 2 2010, 03:09 PM Post #14 |
|
He argues with Daleks !!
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
i use AV white model Putty,for fine-filling,it's water-based,so easily smoothed down,with a wet finger-tip. As for Humbrol Filler,i hate it !! It ALWAYS goes dry,in the tube,after the initial application. (advice needed here,guys....) Cheers,Bazza. |
![]() |
|
| Phreak | Mar 2 2010, 07:28 PM Post #15 |
|
Advanced Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Errrrr, don't use Humbrol filler?
|
![]() |
|
| peebeep | Mar 2 2010, 07:35 PM Post #16 |
|
Lots Of Trouble Usually Serious
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Humbrol filler = stuff that drops out of Beelzebub's bottom. peebeep |
![]() |
|
| Boffin | Mar 2 2010, 08:51 PM Post #17 |
|
Advanced Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
I tend to use Squadron Green putty, heavily thinned down with Revell Contacta Cement. Mixing it in a Beer Bottle top encourages me to indulge in my other hobby Then apply sparingly with a cocktail stick to reduce cleanup. Have also tried cyano and talc with mixed results (tends to go off before I've finished furtlling with it. Cheers, Rob M. |
![]() |
|
| Bazza | Mar 4 2010, 11:53 AM Post #18 |
|
He argues with Daleks !!
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Thanks for that Rob,Squadron Green stuff is QUITE expensive,and wondered what could be used to thin it down.... On the other hand,those FUMES..... Cheers,Bazza |
![]() |
|
| phantomdriver | Mar 4 2010, 12:19 PM Post #19 |
|
Fox Mulder's soul brother.....
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
nail polish remover-Superdrug......... |
![]() |
|
| Bill Clark | Mar 5 2010, 12:03 AM Post #20 |
![]()
Advanced Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
I'm one of those rare modellers that never need to use filler..... Sorry..just dozed off and must have been dreaming........ Filler - yes - superglue, heat stretched sprue, Mr surfacer for smaller bits/seams etc., I never use Milliput for filler - but to construct or reconstruct areas. White Milliput is vastly suoerior than the green/grey stuff - and as Paul says drys well-hard!! I always use wet n'dry - wet - and try to sand where possible in a circular motion. |
![]() |
|
![]() Our users say it best: "Zetaboards is the best forum service I have ever used." Learn More · Register for Free |
|
| Go to Next Page | |
| « Previous Topic · Hints and Tips · Next Topic » |
- Pages:
- 1
- 2




![]](http://z1.ifrm.com/static/1/pip_r.png)






7:26 PM Jul 11





