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| Mawa - Brass Scorpion; From Start to Finish | |
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| Topic Started: 18 Oct 2009, 07:00 PM (1,292 Views) | |
| Mawa | 18 Oct 2009, 07:00 PM Post #1 |
Second Lieutenant
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Well I've signed up to this because I have a secret, I cant paint red very well  It never seems to come out right, no matter what I have tried in the past it just comes out funny. So when I saw the new Brass Scorpion model I knew I had to have it, but also knew that it would probably sit unpainted cos of my Redaphobia like Ann'grath (FW Bloodthirster). I bought that model after pecking my wifes head for six months, build it and its still sat on a shell at undercoat only. But no more, I wish to get the Scorpion done with all sorts of Masterclass techniques, I am willing to try anything and have access to allsorts of tools Pigments, Airbrush etc. In the past i have always had problems with Forgeworld stuff, either feeling like 've rushed a model or 'bodged' it together, this time I wish to get it done right, maybe even enter GD with it. So where do I go from here.....? Edited by Mawa, 18 Oct 2009, 08:33 PM.
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| Ω Captain Wolverine | 18 Oct 2009, 07:47 PM Post #2 |
Super heavy Junkie
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Well after a spring clean lets start Okay me and El D are on this one  Well first things first cleaning (you pm'ed saying you have started) but what are you using to clean it? Also you want the same effect as the FW Brass scorpion? I will leave the paint choices to El D but I will warn you this will be a part build job plus an airbrush job
Edited by Captain Wolverine, 18 Oct 2009, 07:47 PM.
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| Mawa | 18 Oct 2009, 07:53 PM Post #3 |
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Second Lieutenant
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I am currently cleaning it with Warm/Hot water and Fairy Liquid and a Toothbrush. Then once thats done intend to reclean with Isopropyl Alchohol to make sure I dont get any flaking. As for the paint job, I want to emulate the mottled red effect but without it being as glossy. I also would like it to be weathered and 'older' than the factory fresh FW paintjob. As for Part Build/Airbrush, I'm willing to do whatever it needs to make it the model it deserves to be. |
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| Ω Captain Wolverine | 18 Oct 2009, 08:07 PM Post #4 |
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Super heavy Junkie
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Ok without seeing the instructions or the bare tacks of the models itself, it is hard to say which parts to part build etc etc. So make sure that all areas red, brass etc etc are accessible with a brush or airbrush. I will leave the colour choices etc etc to El D. For the mottled effect we can either use the airbrush or a stippling effect. But I am getting a head of myself first things first. Build the scorpion to the bare minimum where once compleet construction won't ruin the paint work :D. Will step back and let El D have a say |
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| Mawa | 18 Oct 2009, 08:23 PM Post #5 |
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Second Lieutenant
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Right I know, that rulebooks and magazine photo's are a no -no but what about the FW assembly instructions. Would it be ok to post photo's from that here? Do you want more photos of the pieces etc and how they fit? |
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| Ω Captain Wolverine | 18 Oct 2009, 08:41 PM Post #6 |
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Super heavy Junkie
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I don't think the instrcution would break rules but to be safe pm them to me and El D. yes a picture of the pieces and where they go would be great. |
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| Mawa | 18 Oct 2009, 08:49 PM Post #7 |
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Second Lieutenant
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No problem, will photo the instructions and set up photo's for parts. Also this post on 40k forums gives a step by step guid to give you an idea of the assembly whilst I clean and photograph. |
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| Ω Captain Wolverine | 18 Oct 2009, 09:03 PM Post #8 |
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Super heavy Junkie
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cheers and here is some for you to chew upon: Silver - First coat is a mix of Boltgun metal, Tin bitz and chaos black, then over that a heavy drybrush of boltgun metal, next a wash of the new Badab Black wash, then another drybrushed coat of boltgun metal, deliberately avoiding any recessed areas and concentrating on the more exposed areas. Next was some hand detailing, basically a mix of chainmail and boltgun metal painted along sharp edges and as scratches, where I thought it was appropriate (most obvious place in the pictures being the bottom of the "jaw"), finally, if these scratches looked too obvious anywhere I'd do a further light brushing over with Boltgun metal. Bronze - Basecoat of tin bitz, then a wash with about 1 part Badab Black wash, 1 part Devan Mud Brown wash and 2 parts water, then a heavy drybrush of tin bitz, followed by a lighter drybrush of dwarf bronze, then a very light glaze of the old brown ink with lots of water. Though I intend to do some further highlighting on the edges and scratches etc. the same as the silver. |
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| El Diablo | 18 Oct 2009, 10:00 PM Post #9 |
Bunker Giant
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Right. Time to get down to business. There's one thing that you need to decide on before you even get it out of the bag, as it will make it much easier to work on in the long run - do you want to base it or go without? My recommendation would be to base it, not only will it add a bit more visual interest to the piece, it will make it more stable and less prone to breaks. For the assembly, i'd look at double pinning any leg/arm joints and adding a single pin to any other load bearing parts for the extra support. I suggest double pinning (2 pins next to each other with a couple of mm between) as if a glue bond comes loose on a limb with a single pin, the arm limb will spin on the axis of the pin puting strain on the resin and wearing down the paint. This is where the base decision comes in handy - how much to assemble before assembly. Having seen the parts breakdown i'd suggest these sub-assemblies if putting on a base. -Body and legs, without top carapace, mounted on the base -Tail cannon -2 main claws -top carapace sections All of course are subjective and entirely up to you, thats just how i'd do it for my own piece. I really should pick one up some day....... Currently thinking about colour and the use of, though Wolvies suggestions for the metals are very close to what i'd suggest. Over to the good Captain for the resin cleaning rituals.  Edited by El Diablo, 18 Oct 2009, 10:08 PM.
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| Mawa | 18 Oct 2009, 10:11 PM Post #10 |
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Second Lieutenant
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Hmm, tbh perfectly honest El D, I hadnt even though about basing or not. Now that you have mentioned it I think a base would be best not only for stability etc, but as it'll be spending most of its time on a shelf it'd make it more of a display piece I think. What to use for pinning, would Paperclips be ok or something more substantial? Also superglue or Araldite (Other brands are available)? So build into: Body with Maw Cannon and Legs Carapace Sections Tail with Scorpion Cannon Is this ok? Am still cleaning, mold lines and mold grease. FW really is a love/hate relationship with me. 
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| Ω Captain Wolverine | 18 Oct 2009, 10:37 PM Post #11 |
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Super heavy Junkie
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Bloody hell El D beat me to the pinning advise ;D. brass rod better than paper clips I echo everything El D said. for future cleaning I suggest a cream cleaner like cif meaning only one cleaning process as for a base I recommend this guy: http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/pjr-woodcrafts__W0QQ_armrsZ1 made my eldar titan base. Edited by Captain Wolverine, 18 Oct 2009, 10:38 PM.
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| Mawa | 18 Oct 2009, 10:52 PM Post #12 |
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Second Lieutenant
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cif Cleaner, right i'll get some cos wasnt sure re Isopropynol. As for base, was thinking of this with a cityfight theme. Base Edited by Mawa, 18 Oct 2009, 10:53 PM.
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| Ω Captain Wolverine | 18 Oct 2009, 11:01 PM Post #13 |
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Super heavy Junkie
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Now will the diameter of that be big enough you don't what it too small as the scorpion will look cramped. My guy will custom build one to the thickness and diameter you need. Your one is cheaper so I'd tend to go with that one but only if it is big enough |
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| El Diablo | 18 Oct 2009, 11:08 PM Post #14 |
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Bunker Giant
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For pinning, i'd recommend brass rod, Gale Force 9 do a nice kit, including the right size drill bits. I picked mine up in a local HobbyCraft, but some uk online stores do them as well, around £8. With decent rods, superglue should be fine. Build list seems fine, but i'd leave the main claws off just so you can get to the detail on the backs of the claws without any problems. I've got to echo Wolvies thoughts on the base size, it seems like it might be a little crampt. I'd suggest a minimum of an inch all the way round just to make sure. Also gives you more room to do something cool with it. |
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| Ω Captain Wolverine | 18 Oct 2009, 11:17 PM Post #15 |
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Super heavy Junkie
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for a good glue I use this stuff: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Grip-Thick-Cyanoacrylate-Super-Glue-50g_W0QQitemZ270468585422QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN?hash=item3ef92f17ce must be red top |
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| Mawa | 19 Oct 2009, 08:25 AM Post #16 |
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Second Lieutenant
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Ok, ordered Red top Grip Thick and 3 sets of the GF9 pinning sets, just trying to sort out the base size atm |
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| Ω Captain Wolverine | 19 Oct 2009, 08:36 AM Post #17 |
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Super heavy Junkie
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Just a little warning to all that read this Red top grip is good stuff will glue to midgets toegether in a flash |
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| Mawa | 19 Oct 2009, 08:46 AM Post #18 |
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Second Lieutenant
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I wanna test that statement now
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| Ω Captain Wolverine | 19 Oct 2009, 06:23 PM Post #19 |
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Super heavy Junkie
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Afetr viewing the instructions I'd have to say El D instructions on the part build is exactly the way to go |
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| Mawa | 19 Oct 2009, 09:41 PM Post #20 |
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Second Lieutenant
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I'm currently building the parts separately as suggested. Have also e-mailed the guy you suggested regarding a custom base. |
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