Welcome Guest [Log In] [Register]
Welcome to Re-Volt Live. We hope you enjoy your visit.

You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are some features you can't use. If you join our community, you'll be able to access member-only sections, and use many member-only features such as customizing your profile, sending personal messages, and voting in polls. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free.

Join our community!

If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features:

Username:   Password:
Add New Reply
Param Note V5.3; Skarma's take on Param Notes
Topic Started: Mar 9 2014, 05:53 PM (6,315 Views)
Member Avatar
[ *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  * ]
Not really a V5.3, just my take on param notes, with what -I- know. Decided to write this to hopefully answer some of BigDick's parameter questions.
You can study some of my cars or any parameters and follow along if you wish.

Whenever you see a ;), you MUST add it as it is a 1.2 parameter line. If you don't do this, your car will not work on previous versions of 1.2 or WolfR4/1207.

All directories should point to the car's appropriate files. Body mesh, wheel meshs and anything else that is a part of the car. The car's BMP, hull, ENV (the colour of the shine that appears on the car), ;)carbox and ;)shadow details are also listed here.


BestTime TRUE/FALSE: Determines if the car is able to set lap records in Time Trial mode.

Selectable TRUE/FALSE: Determines if the car is selectable for the player. This should always be set to TRUE.
Put FALSE if you do not wish the car to be selectable for the player. Usually a good idea if you make a car that's intended for the AI only.

;)CPUSelectable TRUE/FALSE: Determines if the car is selectable for the CPU. Only add this if you intend to set it to FALSE. Usually for a car that you don't want to CPU to use for whatever reason, such as a car that the AI can not handle.

;)Statistics TRUE/FALSE: Determines wether to show the car's statistics or not. (the bars in the car selection screen)

Class: Determines the car's class. 0 = Electric, 1 = Glow, 2 = Special. No difference except for the engine sounds, however, avoid using the Special Class unless you really want it as it does handle differently to the former two.

Obtain: Determines how the car is unlocked. This should always be set to 0 for custom cars so the car is always unlocked.

Rating: Determines the car's rating, 0 = Rookie, 1 = Amateur, 2 = Advanced, 3 = Semi-Pro, 4 = Pro

TopEnd/Acc/Weight: These three values indicate where the bars will sit. Run Re-Volt with the -dev commandline and enter the "Calculate Car Stats" mode from the race selection menu. Select the car, and pay attention to the numbers that appear when the car comes to halt. Make sure you enter these values MANUALLY and under no circumstances should you use the "Save Current Car Stats" option in this mode, it will break your parameters and if you have no backup, you'll have to start all over again.

Handling: Does nothing.

Trans: Determines what drivetrain to show for the car at the car selection screen. This should be the same as the values you've set under "IsPowered" in the wheels section. 0 = 4WD, 1 = FWD, 2 = RWD.

MaxRevs: Does nothing.


SteerRate: This determines how fast the steering wheels will steer when the left/right buttons are pressed. Higher values are faster, lower values are slower. Anything above 10 is too excessive as the car will be borderline impossible to control, so avoid using anything too high unless it's intended for the AI.

SteerMod: Does nothing.

EngineRate: This is how fast the engine responds when the acceleration/reverse button is pressed. The default is usually 3, higher values will make it respond faster and lower values will make it respond slower.

TopSpeed: This is the car's theoretical top speed. This value isn't always achieved, it depends on what values you change. Changing this value does alter the car's actual top speed though, it just might not necessarily be the value you set. All comes down to everything else in the params.

DownForceMod: Determines how much downforce the car has. Higher values will make it stick the ground, lower values are the opposite. A really high value of about 5 or more will absolutely bolt the car to the ground.

CoM: Centre of Mass. This value should be as close to the pivot point of the car's body as possible. The first value is the X axis, which goes left and right and should never ever be used.

The second value is the Y axis, which goes up and down. A good way to find the centre is enable the TVTIME cheat code and use the F6 camera so that it locks onto the car. The camera actually locks onto the CoM, if it's in the middle of the car then you should have a good enough value.

The third value is the Z axis, which goes backwards and forwards. Positive values simulate weight on the front of the car, which increases understeer. Negative values simulate weight on the rear of the car, which increases oversteer. You can use this to adjust the car's handling. Avoid extremes, as oddities will arise when you do.

Weapon: Determines where weapons will fire from on the car. Best to leave this alone.


ModelNum: The numer of the model the parameters will use for the main body of the car. Should always be 0.

Offset: If your car is properly centred, you shouldn't need to use this.

Mass: This is the car's weight in kilograms (kg). The higher the value, the heavier the car will be and the more power will be needed in order for it to move. Don't make this too low or too high. An extremely light car can cause handling problems and other oddities. (Try setting the mass on MOH's OM NOM NOMSTER Truck to about 0.001000 and you'll understand what I mean.)

Likewise with a very heavy car, if you choose to do this, make sure the car either has high ground clearance or PLENTY of power, otherwise the car will get stuck on high inclines like ramps and what not.

Make sure you also set an appropriate amount of power based on your car's weight. A light car with too much power can spin out often, which is an undesireable effect. (My Ferrari 312PB is a good example of this.)

Inertia: I don't really know how to explain this. Only thing I can think of saying is that higher values make the car feel more sluggish and heavier. You'll most likely need to adjust this depending on your car's weight and wheel offsets, especially if it's a big car. You can see which three values you'll need to change, don't touch any of the others. The first value is the width, the second value is the length and the third value is the height. Or the first value is the height and the third value is the width, I forget. I'm sure you can figure it out by playing around with it. Don't use really high values, else the car will be very difficult to turn.

Gravity: I have no idea what this does, but setting it to 0 causes the car to become immobile. Best best, leave it at 2200.

Hardness: Leave this at 0, trust me...

Resistance: This is the car's air resistence, sort've like if you were to drive into another car's slipstream. The higher this value is, the more it will feel like the car is travelling through something more "dense". Lower values can actually make the car exceed it's TopSpeed value, something that I use for partial realism on my cars. I highly recommend using this but don't use negative values.

AngRes: Same as above, except that car is in the air.

ResMod: This value determines weather the car will actually "roll" whislt airborne, like cars in real life. 25 is the default, lower values will actually make it roll.

Grip: Doesnt actually seem to do much, in my view.

StaticFriction: Determines how resistant the car is to moving when stationary. ie, for example, a heavier car crashing into it will make it move more than a lighter one. Higher values make it so more force is needed, lower values are the opposite.

KineticFriction: Exactly the same as above, except that the car is moving.


ModelNum: The number of the model that this wheel will use.

Offset1: The offset of the wheel, ie, it's position on the car. First value is left/right, second value is up/down, third value is backwards/forwards.

Offset2: Not needed for general cars.

IsPresent TRUE/FALSE: Determines if the wheel is actually there or not.

IsPowered TRUE/FALSE: This determines wether this particular wheel receives power or not.

Wheel 0 & 1 = TRUE = FWD (Wheels 2 & 3 should be FALSE for this.)
Wheel 2 & 3 = TRUE = RWD (Wheels 0 & 1 should be FALSE for this.)
All Wheels = TRUE = 4WD

IsTurnable TRUE/FALSE: Determines if the wheel can be steered using the left/right buttons.

SteerRatio: Determines how much the wheel will actually steer before it locks. Higher values will make it turn more, lower values will turn less. Do not use anything too high. Humma has 0.5, that's pretty much the limit.

EngineRatio: This is the actual amount of power that the wheel receives from the engine when you accelerate or reverse. Higher values = more power. Try to avoid extremely high values unless you have a certain purpose in mind.

Radius: The wheel's actual size. Play around with the F6 TVTIME camera until you find the correct size.

Mass: The wheel's mass in kilograms.

Gravity: Supposedly, this value decides how long it takes for the wheel to get traction on a particular surface or after landing a jump.

MaxPos: This value is very important, as its directly linked to the suspension but its difficult to explain. Take a car like Bertha for example. Notice how it leans a lot? That's basically what MaxPos does, along with the other values under 'Suspension'. Just try with different values, like 3, 6, 9 and 12. Hopefully, you'll understand it better then.

SkidWidth: The width of the car's skidmarks. Should be the same length as the wheels themselves.

ToeIn: Does nothing.

AxleFriction: This one is actually more focused on a handling aspect but it does have an affect on speed. It's also a little confusing because the values seem to backwards. This value is supposed to be how much friction there is against the wheel when it is turning. Higher values means more friction, which increases the car's cornering ability and also results in a higher top speed. Lower values are the opposite. Only use this if you really require it and do not use it for adjusting the car's speed because it also alters the handling. Negative values are a no no here, as it will make the car continually speed up to a (supposedly) infinite speed until it hits something and doing this can infact cause the game to crash.

Grip: How much grip the wheel has. Make sure to keep it within the tenth units. 0.020000 is an example.

StaticFriction: The wheel's resistance to sliding while stationary. Higher values are more resistant, lower values will slide more.

KineticFriction: Exactly the same as above, except that the car is moving.


ModelNum: Model number for the spring.

Offset: Offset for the spring, just like the wheels. You will not need this or the above value if you don't have a model for the spring.

Length: The length of the spring. Again, not needed if you have no model.

Stiffness: How hard/soft the spring is. Higher values are harder, lower values are softer. 1000 is a good value for stiff, 600 for a bit softer and 300 for very soft. Avoid extremes.

Damping: The speed which the spring moves at. Higher values are slower, lower values are faster.

Restitution: How compressed the shocks are and how much the wheels can drop away from the car. Examine Toyeca's and Bertha's parameters to get a better understanding.

I don't know anything about Pins or Axles.


Offsets are the same as the wheels.

Model number should point to the object that you want as a spinner.

Axis, I have no idea.

AngVel is how fast the object will spin.


SecModelNum/TopModelNum: The models for the aerials. You don't have to use both if you don't want to, you can just stick with the stock aerial or use Ironbob's aerials. Make sure the directory and model numbers are correct.

Offset: Same as wheel offsetting.

Direction: The direction the aerial will fly towards when the car is moving. Naturally, it should fly backwards.

Length: Self explanatory.

Stiffness: How stiff the aerial is. Lower values will make it more floppy, higher values will make it stiffer.

Damping: Same thing as the suspension.


Not my territory. See CW's AI tutorials here and here.


;)CAMATTACHED { ; Start Camera
;)HoodOffset 0.00 -60.00 -185.00
;)HoodLook 0.03
;)RearOffset 0.00 65.00 200.00
;)RearLook 0.02
;)} ; End Camera

This is my base camera that you see on most of my cars. Copypasta into your params, you can work out the values for yourself.

Got any questions? Drop a post here or PM me.

I hope this was enlightening for you. Now go make some great params.
Posted Image
Posted Image
Offline Profile Quote Top
Member Avatar
Lazy and slowly progressing car maker since 2010.
[ *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  * ]
"however, avoid using the Special Class unless you really want it as it does handle differently to the former two."

Does it? Really?

Anyway, this could be useful :)
LiveVolt supporter :)
Posted Image

Rail handling is for n00bs.
Offline Profile Quote Top
Member Avatar
PEPASERVER/quemeaspen/ kikizana/Iplay2x2ever
[ *  *  * ]
I know this ain't the right place but, how to make the car lean at curves just as "Bike" and "Bird" do?
My "Blog" / My Youtube Channel / My Steam / My Gamebanana / pepaserverhk@gmail.com
Offline Profile Quote Top
Member Avatar
[ *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  * ]
CoM, MaxPos and Suspension. Fiddle about with those. I think you'll want those to be soft and fast. Ask CW, she'll have a better idea about that than me.
Posted Image
Posted Image
Offline Profile Quote Top
Member Avatar
Resident Tinkerer
[ *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  * ]
Okay, he PMd, I replied.

Here's a short and technical explanation for all the forum lurkers, too :)

1) Make the vehicle run on two physical wheels, i.e. position the two front wheels in the same place and the rear ones too.
Why four and not simply 2 wheels? If the vehicle has less than three wheels on the ground, then the car AI is totally bypassed (thatís hard-coded into the game). This means that all bikes and other leaning vehicles that have only two wheels go strictly according to the track AI and their car AI cannot be tuned.
2) The leaning action comes from having the centre of mass (CoM) below the ground.
And it doesnít lean with a CoM of, say, 0.1 unit above the ground (even though this is still below the wheel mounts).
And if you lower it too much, the shadow disappears and the vehicle starts missing some checkpoints.
Basically: lower it too far and then raise again until the shadow appears again. Then it has maximum leaning and mostly copes well with checkpoints.
Test it: let the AI run it on Toytanic1. If it doesnít hang on two critical checkpoint nodes there, then itís ok.
3) AngRes needs to be absolutely wild! (somewhere around 0.131000) No wonder bikes initially stay still in flight. But itís necessary to keep it leaned and not swinging in curves.
I tested it, and it swings left and right with less air resistance.
4) And it _can_ be made to tumble in jumps, with ResMod 0.
All my stuff is available here, and all my videos are available there.
Offline Profile Quote Top
Member Avatar
The unusual 1990's gamer.
[ *  *  *  * ]
My car does lean a good amount when slow, but so far it is so slim when fast! Why does this happens? How does the CoM affects handling?
Some fries and heavy metal!
Offline Profile Quote Top
1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous)
« Previous Topic · Car Tutorials · Next Topic »
Add New Reply