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| Preparing for fall | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Oct 7 2011, 01:16 PM (320 Views) | |
| denny | Oct 7 2011, 01:16 PM Post #1 |
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Fry
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I got my pond covered with a net today. Just in time too because the leaves are starting to come down. Next time I put the net down, I'll have some help. It was 28'x45' and it was a pain getting it spread out and pulled over the pond. I'll modify things next year and build a removable PVC frame to drape the net over. For now, this will work to keep the leaves, twigs, acorns, and hickory nuts out of the water. |
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| 43freckleface | Oct 9 2011, 04:49 AM Post #2 |
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Bluegill
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I have been working on a cover for mine the past few days. I can only imagine with the size of your pond just how much work is involved. I made mine with a PVC frame and am hoping it will keep the leaves out. I have been plagued by filamentous algae (sting/hair algae) this past couple of weeks. It is ugly. Do you have this problem? I spent time yesterday using a skimmer net to carefully remove sludge/leaves that even though I have a great skimmer still fell to the bottom. I was surprised at how much had accumulated amongst the rocks. Since the only rocks in my pond were in a ring in the oval center where it is 24" deep I took them all out. I also did about 1/3 water change and cleaned away what I could with a stick and my hands. After everything was cleaned as much as I could I added more beneficial bacteria to my bio filter. I was wondering if my pump is strong enough. I think my pond is around 700 gallons and I have a Danner 02720 Pond Mag 9.5 950-Gallon-Per-Hour Pump. I am planning on disconnecting the pump later possibly next month. It appeared to work fine all summer. I also have a small box filter in the pond which powers my spitter. It is a smartpond Water Garden Mechanical Filter Box with a 330 gallon per hour submersible pump. It was the one I purchased when I had my first preform pond. I unhooked the spitter but left the pump on so it is moving the water. I moved it to the outer edge of the pond where it is 18" deep. I was thinking I could leave this one running all winter. I also plan on going to the store and picking up a aerating stone to use as well. I do have a floating pond deicer heater that is not hooked up. Just how much to do to keep the fish safe worries me. Earlier this spring when I was looking for rocks for my pond I contacted a man that was removing a pond from his yard. The filter has not been used in the 2 years he has lived there. No winter protection and I bet the sludge at the bottom was at least a foot deep. Strange thing is that there were tons of living goldfish in the pond. I saved as many as I could net out. Most I rehomed. It was amazing that they could live in that nasty pond. Maybe they are a lot tougher than we give them credit for. This will be the first winter for the fish to stay in the pond so I am hoping to do everything right. :swimfishy: Melanie |
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| Its Just Don | Oct 9 2011, 06:50 AM Post #3 |
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Bluegill
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It is amazing how hardy goldfish can be. The most important thing, in my opinion is the airstone you put in about midwater. It will keep an open area in the water and allow gasses to escape. Just watch the ice thickness and if it starts to get really thick, hook up the floating heater. I don't know how severe Indianapolis winters are, but I wouldn't think you have to worry about the pond freezing to the bottom. The dangers for goldfish in severe winter areas are the buildup of noxious gasses in the pond, depletion of oxygen, and being frozen in a block of ice. Keeping an opening with an airstone allows the gasses to escape and adds oxygen. Your pond is likely deep enough to prevent their becoming ice cubes. Don Good to hear from you again. |
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| tlc | Oct 9 2011, 07:44 AM Post #4 |
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Big Fish Moderator
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:iagree: The aerator will do a good job of keeping a hole open in the ice. I was surprised at how well it worked in my big pond. I am using the smaller one that I had from my old pond but I also bought a big one thinking I needed it. Nope, I didn't need the big one so far. I use my little aerator 24-7 year round. |
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| tlc | Oct 9 2011, 07:50 AM Post #5 |
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Big Fish Moderator
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Koi Clay works super good for string algae. I've been using it for about 3 years. I have read that your pump should turn your pond over once an hour ideally. That was what I was aiming for when I built my pond. I also was concerned about electrical draw and I took that into consideration. What deicer do you have? Goldfish are pretty hardy. Out of all the fish I have in the pond I worry about them the least. They are the tough guys in the neighbor hood. B) Glad to see you both posting. :thumbup: |
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| 43freckleface | Oct 10 2011, 03:30 AM Post #6 |
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Bluegill
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Thank you both for your suggestions. Indiana winters are not too bad but I do know that if I don't use my heated bucket for the horses then their water does freeze so I am sure I would get a nice layer of ice over the pond. I did go out and get my airstone. I will get it hooked up today and I like the idea of using it year round. Sounds like a great idea. Would I place it in the center midwater or at the outer edge? I think I remember reading somewhere you are not supposed to disburb the water in the lowest areas as it is warmer for the fish. I also read that when closing the pond for the year to do a partial water change and to clean out as much leaves gunk as possible. I think I will invest in a pond vacuum next year. The skimmer took forever. How are you adding the Koi Clay? Do you mix it and pour around the pond or are you adding it to their diet? The pond deicer I have is a Farm Inovations 1250 watt. I purchased it last year for my preform but then decided to bring the fish inside. I also have a Tetra Pond floating heater. I usually pick up items at sales throughout the summer just in case they might work with my pond. I have a real conglomeration of pond related items. |
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| Its Just Don | Oct 10 2011, 05:30 AM Post #7 |
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Bluegill
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I don't think it matters much where the airstone is, as long as it's not at the bottom, where it would disturb the stratification of temperatures and speed freezing. As water cools off, it gets denser and sinks to the bottom until it reaches about 39 degrees; then it begins to expand into the crystal lattice of ice, so it gets less dense and floats to the top. That's why ice forms at the top of a pond and not at the bottom. So the temperature of the water at the bottom of the pond is 39 degrees when there is ice on the top. That's why they fish hang out at the bottom. Don't know about koi clay. Tia does, though. Unless you're rich as all get out, I'd be careful about using the 1250 watt heater. While it won't run all the time if it has a thermostat built in, it will cost a lot to run it. Check out your electrical rates and calculate how much that would be. For example, if your rate is 10 cents per kilowatt hour, and your heater is 1250 watts ( 1.25 kilowatts ), it will cost 12.5 cents per hour to operate. That's $ 3.00 per day, $21.00 per week, or about $ 90 per month. That could be quite a shock for most people when they get their electric bill. There are floating heaters that use far less; some use only 100 watts or 12 times less than the one you have. Don |
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| tlc | Oct 10 2011, 07:40 AM Post #8 |
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Big Fish Moderator
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I'm too lazy to mix the clay into the fishes diet. If they want to swim around and feed themselves then good for them. :swimfishy: I just scoop out the clay into a tall dixie cup or butter tub then add water (I have well water so no declor) and mix it around until it all soaked up and easy to pour. I don't worry at all about any clumps/lumps. I take the mixture out to the pond and dump it in around the pond. I have learned not to dump it all on one place as it will be visible to the eye, again I was being lazy. You are supposed to add it every week but I don't. I slack off and add it when I remember. If you were to pin me down on that I guess it would be once a month during the summer, 2 or 3 x's a month during fall and a little over that for winter. Then before spring kicks in I add it 2 x's a week for a couple of weeks and then 1 x per week for as long as I feel like it :rolleyes: . There is a difference in koi clay though. Some clay mixes better with water than others. Not a real big deal though. Frogman3 found a real good deal on the clay here a while back. If you are adding much of the clay then a good deal is a must. We pond keepers have to save a buck or two where we can so we can have more money for more pond stuff :woohoo:
Yes, you need to remove as much gunk off the bottom as possible. That is where the fish will be laying over for winter and you don't want any leaves or whatever to be rotting down there. I trim up all my potted plants in the pond at the same time. A partial water change is good idea. I actually do (very small) water changes all winter long as long at there isn't a real cold snap. We also get lots of rain in my area and that helps too. This year I'm going to do more water testing to see where my other numbers are at A pond vac is a super investment (IMO). I don't regret buying it one bit. It makes it SO much easier to get ready for winter and spring wakeup. Whew, I'm outta breath now. ;) |
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| 43freckleface | Oct 10 2011, 10:46 AM Post #9 |
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Bluegill
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Yikes now I am thinking twice about that heater. Think I will sell it and use the airstone and my other floating heater that is a lot less watts. I think my Hubby would kick my you know what all over the place if he got an electric bill that was all of the sudden real high. I really appreciate the help! |
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| 43freckleface | Oct 10 2011, 10:55 AM Post #10 |
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Bluegill
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I was hoping you would say pour it around the pond because I feed a pelleted diet and since I have cut way back on that it would be hard to get them to eat it. I will check out some pricing today on the clay. Sounds like a winner to me! I have so much to learn :noclue: Thank you! |
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| tlc | Oct 10 2011, 11:44 AM Post #11 |
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Big Fish Moderator
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And learn you will. Soon you will be helping others with their ponding questions. :thumbup:
I'm betting that will work just fine for you. T |
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| 43freckleface | Oct 11 2011, 03:43 AM Post #12 |
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Bluegill
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I hope your right T. Only time will tell. |
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| frogman3 | Oct 11 2011, 08:33 PM Post #13 |
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Bluegill
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Wow I'm a little late to the party it seems. I think a lot of good advise has been given here so only a few thoughts I have to share. The reason you have some tree leaves and dead plant parts sinking to the bottom of your pond is due to the lily leaves which trap them. Your pump size is fine. Your skimmer can only catch what makes it to the opening. I do have a very cheap source for calcium bentonite clay (koi clay) which is direct from the manufacture. You do have to buy a large minimum so if you like the results on your initial purchase I can direct you to a much cheaper source down the road. Like everyone else I have been prepping the pond for winter netting using PVC pipe to create a tent over the pond. This allows the leaves to fall to the side of the pond for easy removal with my leaf vacuum. It also keeps the snow in winter from pushing the netting into the pond where it would freeze and collect rotting leaves throughout the winter. Lastly it good to hear from you both as well. wink |
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| 43freckleface | Oct 12 2011, 03:55 AM Post #14 |
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Bluegill
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I finished the cover for the pond last night. Hmmm, I did not make a dome. It is flat with spacers across to keep it off the water. I may have done this wrong but I used screening. What do you use for netting? Also, if you could send me a message as to where to get the Koi clay I would really appreciate it. Oops one more question. When is the right time to cut back the lillies? They are still budding and I was enjoying the beautiful blooms. Thank you, Melanie |
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| tlc | Oct 12 2011, 12:09 PM Post #15 |
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Big Fish Moderator
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Are you asking me or Frogman3?
I don't think it matters really IMO as long as the screen won't rust or has any type of coating or residue that would harm the fish. A net is a net and the purpose is to keep "things" from dropping in the pond and/or critters out.
If your lilies are still blooming and looking good I would leave them and enjoy them as long as possbile (assuming you have all hardies). I usually cut mine (hardies) back when they are turning to mush or just looking crappy overall. This year I am planning on cutting them back sooner as I don't want to freeze my hind end off or get too busy with the u-cut and not have time if I wait a few more weeks. T |
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