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Dodged a bullet!
Topic Started: Mar 12 2011, 08:09 AM (346 Views)
Its Just Don
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Bluegill
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The size hole that the aerator creates depends on the temperature. There was a point this winter when we had below zero weather and an extended period far below freezing that the water froze completely over the aerator. The air would accumulate under the ice until a large bubble collected and moved to the side of the pond, where it would be expelled, making a noise reminiscent of passing gas. When temps moderated, the hole reopened. Remember that the air that is being pumped into the water is about the same as the air temperature. That was part of the problem that KK had a couple years ago when her aerator was pumping -50 F air into her pond water. The airstone(s) should NOT be placed on the bottom or the stratification of water temperature will be disrupted and you risk killing your fish. Remember that water is its most dense (heaviest) at 39 degrees Fahrenheit, so that's the temperature at the bottom of the pond unless you push it to the top with bubbles. That will speed the cooling of the pond to the point that it could freeze solid. I put my bubbler in the shallow end of my pond, which is 22 inches deep and don't disturb the deeper parts.

I also use a floating heater to keep to keep a hole open. This hole stays open regardless of temperature and is important in allowing noxious gases to escape that could asphyxiate the fish. Running a 200 to 250 watt heater won't run up the electric bill if you've shut off your pump as you're just trading off electricity usage and the heater has a thermostat that shuts the heater off when the water is above 32 degrees. With a shallow pond, I recommend using a floating heater. My son has a small pond with a depth of 18 inches and the floating heater keeps his fish alive quite nicely.
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tlc
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:iagree: Ya, what he said.
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frogman3
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Here is my two cents worth. I believe in your sometimes extreme weather it would be advisable to use both a small bubbler and a de-icer. What I use can be found here http://www.azponds.com/New_webpages/New_fall_winter.html The pondmaster 120 watt floating de-icer. That way if one should crap out during the depth of winter the other will keep a hole open.
I use different methods for keeping the nets out of the pond since winter snows weigh them down. In my 10 x 10 ft pond I insert a 4 ft plastic pipe in one of the submerged plant pots in the center of the pond and stick a plastic bottle over the top of the pipe. Thus I create a tent with the net which allows the snow to slide off to the sides and keeps the net out of the water.
I'm not too keen on the net being in the water since I worry about the smaller guys getting hung up in the mesh. Plus any ducks will not try to land in the pond if the netting is elevated over the pond. :angry:
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anitapond
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So many ideas to address here. Thanks everyone!

OK~

T: "I'm going to barge into this thread here and add my 2 cents." You are not barging, and I need your 2 cents plus more! After I log off here, I'm going to check on that aerator link you provided.

DP: Do you think I could get away with just an aerator because my pond is so shallow (like your son's pond)?

FM3: I see what you're saying about the net. I would hate to have any fish or frogs get caught up in it. Unfortunately, my pond isn't big enough to have to worry about ducks! ;) . I wouldn't be able to "prop a tent" the same way you do.

Everyone: I've had a deicer sitting in a box for 2 years now. I'm afraid to use it... :idiot: . The cord is only 6 feet long, and the instructions state not to plug it into an extension cord. Why? I don't know. Perhaps I should ask my DH - he's an electrician! :blink: :noclue:

On a completely different note: I just read on a pond "tip" page that filter pads should be replaced after year unless you have the Matala pads that can last up to 3 years. I have yet to replace my filter pads; didn't know I should until they were falling apart. Has anyone else heard this or follow this practice?
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Its Just Don
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Quote:
 
DP: Do you think I could get away with just an aerator because my pond is so shallow (like your son's pond)?


He uses a floating heater, not an aerator. I'd use the heater. You can use an extension cord -- just make sure it's a heavy duty one made for higher amps and outdoor use. The problem with an extension cord is the point of connection between extension cord and heater cord. Water gets in there and shorts out the whole thing. I use an extension cord, but then fold the connection into a plastic ziplock bag, zip it up and tape around with plastic electrical tape. That waterproofs the connection and keeps the rain and snow out. Works just fine.
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tlc
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Its Just Don,Mar 15 2011
08:41 PM
I'd use the heater.  You can use an extension cord -- just make sure it's a heavy duty one made for higher amps and outdoor use.  The problem with an extension cord is the point of connection between extension cord and heater cord.  Water gets in there and shorts out the whole thing.  I use an extension cord, but then fold the connection into a plastic ziplock bag, zip it up and tape around with plastic electrical tape.  That waterproofs the connection and keeps the rain and snow out.  Works just fine.

:iagree:


anitapond
Mar 15 2011
I just read on a pond "tip" page that filter pads should be replaced after year unless you have the Matala pads that can last up to 3 years. I have yet to replace my filter pads; didn't know I should until they were falling apart. Has anyone else heard this or follow this practice?


Did they say why you needed to change? I have never heard of that. For bigger ponds that would be very expensive. I think I would pass out if I had to buy new filter material for my filter every year. :faint: The answer is, no I do not practice this "tip".
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Its Just Don
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I use Matala mats, but I don't see why filters would need to be changed unless they get so clogged that they won't rinse clean.
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anitapond
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Its Just Don,Mar 15 2011
11:41 PM
He uses a floating heater, not an aerator.

Sorry, DP. I mis-read your original post. With just the deicer, would the fish get enough oxygen? There is nothing to "disturb" the water...

Also, thanks for the tip about the extension cord wrapping. I will do that and quit worrying about using the de-icer.
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anitapond
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The company that states this "tip" is PondScape (the maker of AquaScape products). They don't give an explanation as to why to get new filter media every year. This brings to mind a previous post about AquaScape - they seem to want to just suck money out of pond owners.

DP - what density of Matala would you recommend? I can put 2 mats in my bio filter. If it makes a difference, remember that my pond is small (approx. 500 gallons). I'm just thinking I should probably replace my mats as the ones that came with my kit are generic, regular foam pads. It would probably be good to have 2 different densities.
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Its Just Don
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I use the coarse, black Matala mats in the two slots that act as a prefilter for my pump in the early part of the year. After the initial "green" period in the spring, I switch the second one to the green or the blue filter. If I used the finer filters in the spring, I'd have to clean them twice or more a day. At the end of my lily pool, I have three slots and I use a green, a blue and a gray filter. That water moves very slowly through the lily pool and most of the solids settle out before getting to the filters, so these filters act to "polish" the water. They need to be cleaned only every three to four weeks throughout the summer. The gray one is quite fine and removes very fine silty material, but plugs up quicker. Whichever ones you use depends on how much water is moving through them and how often you want to clean them.

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